 
 t's actually really easy to make a coin bra. You don't need a sewing machine (tho it does make it quicker), and no major sewing skills are required!
 hese instructions are to make a coin bra that I find to be very comfortable, supportive, and really quite quick and simple to do! It has stretchy sides and a stretchy halter strap that ties at the back of the neck.
 he first bra was a learning curve. It fitted OK. The second is fabulous!
 hat did I learn?
- Buying a regular bra with shoulder straps was a mistake. I found out that a convertable bra, that is DESIGNED to fit as a halter neck, is much better than trying to alter a regular style bra.
- Replacing the stretchy sides of the bra with cotton was wrong for me. I need stretch to breathe! (I'm a D/DD cup size)
- Having non-stretch cotton straps hurt the knobbly bit at the back of my neck. I need stretchy straps too!
- I have found that major alterations change the fit and comfort of the bra too much - and the comfort and fit is what I liked about the bra in the first place!
to keep these instructions as short as possible, I have only described how I have made my favourite style of coin bras. There are several other options! So, I have made a Variations and Techniques page showing stitches used and a few variations.
 strongly suggest that you read the Variations and Techniques before you begin to make your bra. You might find an option there that you prefer, or that had not occurred to you.
 PECIAL NOTE! Now and then in these instructions, you will notice a little thingy like this...  If you click on it, it will take you to another option or further explanation on the "Variations and Techniques" page.
Choosing Your Bra
 ou need a bra that has firm, smooth cups. Strong plain black fabric with smooth, even edges. Lightly padded. No lacey bits. Must be underwired.
ry to choose one where the side flows in a smooth line from the cup to the hook closure. Many bras have an uneven shape here, and you want to avoid that if possible.
 ook for a convertable bra if possible. Why?...
- They are often made of plain fabric with smooth edges
- They usually have sturdier cups
- The cups are designed to not change shape when the position of the straps is moved from over the shoulder to halter neck straps.
- They are often supportive enough to be worn strapless.
 uy the bra size that has cups that fits you well! Do not get a size larger than you normally wear unless you want to line and pad it later. If you take care sewing on your coins then you will not have a problem with the bra becoming smaller when it's finished.
What Else Do I Need?
- 2 yards of 1" wide sturdy cotton twill tape for the back ties
- 2 yards of 1" wide sturdy cotton twill tape for the neck ties
- 1 yard of 1" wide sturdy elastic
- 1/4 yard black cotton lycra or similar - must be 2 way stretch
- Black machine sewing thread
- Strong thread to finish - I use crochet cotton - DMC 'Cebelia', or 'Coton Perle 8'
- Fraycheck (optional)
The Back & Sides of the Bra
1. Cut two, 1 yard pieces of 1" wide cotton twill tape.
2. Cut off the bra back at the point where the shoulder straps would join on. (See photo 1)
3. Fold a pleat in the bra side to make it 1" wide (or the same width as your tape). Pin. (See photo 2)
4. On the outside, pin one end of the tape onto the pleated fabric, matching edges, with the long tail of the tape towards the bra cup. (See photo 3 - the tape & stitching are coloured in the diagram so you can see what I mean).
5. Using your sewing machine, sew back and forth over the overlap for about 1", making sure the tape is firmly attached to the top and bottom elastic edges of the bra.
6. Now flip the tape back over again, so that it is in the usual 'tie' position. (See photo 4)
7. Once again,stitch backwards and forwards over the tape to make a really secure join.
8. Cut some lycra wide enough to overlap the underwire seam by 1/2" and the tape join by 1/2". Make it long enough to wrap around the side piece and overlap on the inside.
9. Center the lycra on the outside. (The hand stitched seam will end up on the inside).
10. Beginning at the underwire seam, fold under a 1/4", trimming away excess lycra. Pin along the edge of the underwire. Smooth the lycra towards the tape, pinning as you go. Do NOT stretch the lycra. At the tape end, coverup the stitching with the lycra. Fold under 1/4", trimming away excess lycra. Pin.
11. Using strong thread, hand stitch the folded edges of the lycra to the underwire seam and the tape seam. The strength of your bra is being taken by the sides, the elastic and the tape. It is more important that your stitching here looks nice and is secure, rather than having it strong.
12. Turn to the inside. Fold over the top and bottom edges of the lycra so they meet in the middle. Trim the lycra so that the edges overlap by 1/2". Smooth flat. Pin.
13. Same as you did on the outside, fold, trim, pin and stitch the lycra to both the underwire seam and the tape seam.
14. Now stitch the inside seam. We need to keep the side stretch in the sides. So hand stitch the seam using herringbone stitch thru both inside layers of lycra, making sure to NOT catch the outside layer in your stitches.
The Halter Neck Strap
 hances are that the halter strap that came with your bra will not be wide enough. So we will replace it with wide elastic, adding cotton tape to make the ties at the ends.
 ra designers have discovered that elastic straps are more comfortable than non-stretch ones - so I'm not going to argue with that! Even with the weight of the coins, this works well for me, and I can comfortably wear my coin bra for hours.
1. Re-attach the halter strap that came with your bra, and try it on. Adjust the strap length. Remove the strap.
2. Cut a piece of wide elastic the same length as the original strap. Cut it in half.
3. If your bra has plastic or metal fittings where the straps join on, unpick the stitching and remove them.
4. Using the same 'stitch, flip & stitch' method as we used for the back ties, pin one end of the elastic onto the cup where you want your strap to be, matching edges. Let the long tail of the tape hang downwards.
5. Stitch backwards and forwards over the elastic to make a really secure join. Your stitching should extend down the elastic to about 1" deep.
6. Now flip the elastic back up again, so that it is in the usual 'strap' position, then stitch backwards and forwards over it again.
7. Repeat steps 4 to 6 to make the strap for the other side of your bra.
8. Cut two, 1 yard pieces of 1" wide tape and safety pin to the end of each elastic strap, overlappping by 2". Do NOT sew them on yet.
9. Try your bra on. Tie the neck straps.
- You should have elastic straps running up from the bra, over your collarbone, to just past the base of your neck.
- The elastic should NOT be long enough to meet in the middle.
- The cotton tape should meet in the middle and tie. It is very important to get this adjustment right.
- If the elastic meets in the middle, then you will not be able to tie the strap tighter if you need to.
- You should have a gap of 4" - 6" between the ends of the elastic.
- If the elastic is too long, then unpin the tape, cut the elastic, re-pin the tape and check again.
10. At this stage, also look at the angle of the elastic where it joins the bra cup. Does it sit flat? Do you need to adjust that too?
11. Once you are happy with the straps, then using the same 'stitch, flip & stitch' method as we used for the back ties, sew the tape onto the ends of the elastic.
12. We now need to cover all the joins and stitching with lycra. Cut a piece of lycra 3" longer than the elastic part of your strap, and wide enough to wrap around and overlap underneath.
13. Make a lycra tube to cover the strap. It must be able to slip easily over the elastic part of the strap, but not be baggy!
14. If your sewing machine can sew a good strong stretch stitch, then use the machine to sew the long length of the tube, (leaving 1" unsewn at one end). Turn it right side out, and slip over the elastic.
15.If your machine stretch stitch is not strong, then handsew the lycra covering. Enclose the elastic part of the strap in the lycra and use herringbone stitch to sew the long edge, (leaving 1" unsewn at the bra cup end). Do not make it too tight. Do not catch the strap itself as you sew. The tube needs to be able to slip over the strap.
16. Slide the unsewn end of the lycra tube down to the bra cup over the stitching. Turn under 1/4" and securely stitch the lycra over the stitching on the front and also on the back. Stitch the gap in the tube seam with herringbone stitch.
17. Smooth the lycra over the elastic up to the join with the tape, covering the stitching. Do NOT stretch the lycra. Trim away excess lycra, allowing for 1/4" turn under. Securely stitch the lycra to the tape.
18. Repeat with the other strap.
 on't worry that the join in the strap might look a bit noticeable. Considering that it is black on black, it will be behind your neck, and it will most likely be covered by your hair or a necklace... then unless you have Orlando Bloom nibbling your ear, no one is actually going to see that join! 
Finishing the Bra
 ow your bra base is almost finished and ready to decorate! All you need to do is to finish the ends of the back and neck ties.
- Try on your bra. Tie the neck ties loosely and slip the bra over your head. Tie the back ties.
- Re-tie the neck ties so that they fit comfortably.
- Re-adjust the back ties if necessary.
- All of your ties will be too long, so cut them to the length that you want. (I usually make a diagonal cut).
- Finish the cut edge. To do this, either sew a narrow hem, overcast stitch it, or dip the very ends in Fraycheck!
Fraycheck is a nifty product available from most sewing and craft stores.
It dries clear, is washable, and stops the ends from fraying.
f you want to cover the cups of your bra, then do that now. I usually do not cover my bra cups because they are going to be covered up with coins and decorations anyway!
o cover the bra cups, take some more of your cotton lycra (or other 2 way stretch fabric) and drape it over the cup. Pin, cut, pleat and ease it to fit. Hand stitch in place.
 nd yes, we are going to line the bra ... but not until AFTER it has had all the coins and decorations added!
To Variations and Techniques
Note: "How to Decorate Your Coin Bra" is still being written
and should be on-line sometime soon.
Important note!
Please feel free to print a copy of these instructions for your own use. I have provided them to you free of charge, so I request that you do NOT sell them, and do NOT put a copy of them on your own webpages.
Thank you!
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